There is a line in the 1985 movie “Murphy’s Romance” with James Garner and Sally Field. They’re at the horse auction and the auctioneer says, “We have some bargains and some surprises today, folks, your job is to find out which is which.”
Unfortunately, too many people who sell something they might want tend to keep the surprises to themselves.
If your local auto dealer brings a clutch to the auto auction and doesn’t reveal the surprises, you could be kicked out of future auctions if your secret is discovered. So, for the most part, big-name auction cars are what they seem; there are no surprises. Not so with consignment stud auctions, or someone just selling a saddle in front of the barn. To avoid a surprise and find a bargain when buying a used saddle, you need to know where surprises can be hidden. Here are 9 things to look for (or into) before buying a used saddle.
AGE It is not a deciding factor because a good saddle may be ageless. I’ve seen some really good ones that I know were 40 years old. On the other hand, I have seen saddles a few years old turned into scrap metal. Some saddles come with serial numbers and the manufacturer can date them for you. Being told how old (or young) the saddle is just means you have to decide for yourself if that’s a factor.
Like NEW. A used saddle is going to have some signs of normal wear and tear and some scratches and scuffs. If you don’t want that, get a new one. But the new one will have scrapes and scrapes if you ride anywhere except in the parade ring.
The TREE The tree is what’s under all that leather (or cheap stuff). When they build a saddle, they make the tree and attach everything to it. It is the base of the saddle and must be solid. To test the tree, place the chair on the floor like a gymnast doing the splits. Hold the horn of the chair and press down on the cantle (the back of the seat) and rotate it. If something is bending, it may be spinning on a broken tree. A broken tree is a deciding factor. DO NOT buy a saddle with a broken tree.
LEATHER There is very good leather and then there is the “quickie leather”. Good things will be thick, soft, and flexible and will last almost forever if you treat them right. It always costs more because there is more time to prepare. Cheaper leather (the material that doesn’t get much attention, just “slam bam”) will be thin, stiff, often cracked, and tend to curl. Avoid buying a used saddle with poor quality leather. There are no bargains there. Don’t be fooled by that old joke that “a little cleaning and conditioning will pay you back.” If that were true, it would have been “returned” before going on sale. If you want one of those 10 pound “artificial” saddles that you can hose down, buy a new one, they usually cost less than $ 150 (but don’t expect much).
POLAR Most, if not all, saddles have a furry fleece on the underside. Expect to find a fair amount of wear and tear here. If it looks like it needs to be replaced, go ahead. There is no bargain here. “ï ¿½ Another point; uneven wear can be a sign of a poorly designed saddle, or a saddle that does not fit the horse well. The fleece may be dirty, but if the saddle has been cared for it should not be offensive. “. The fleece can be easily cleaned with a mild (liquid) detergent and a good scrub brush, I do this once a season.
SEWING Sewing holds everything together. Problems can occur and must be addressed immediately. Saddles for sale with a lot of rotten and missing stitching should send the warning flags. Watch out for the saddle with several obvious stitch repairs. Maybe if the saddle has been in so many fights, it may not be right for you.
SO GOOD I once looked at a saddle for sale and was told, “It’s as good as a Tucker!” Once a saddle manufacturer gets a good reputation, copycats come from everywhere. Most of “sorta” get it, but few have been able to copy all the reasons why I would want the original. I’m not inclined to try to make something “built like” the real thing, no matter how much money I can save. When it comes to my comfort on the road, I want the good stuff.
FOOTREST This article is about western saddles. I can’t stand those little tufts of leather that those snooty jodhpurs-people who dress dray-sage in those funny hats call saddles. Western stirrups can be easily changed. But the used saddle you buy should come with stirrups and it should look like they belong there. Change them after purchase, but no definite stirrups or mismatches, send more red flags
ASK PRICE I get very cautious when I see a price followed by “OBO” (or best offer). A saddle worth selling is worth putting a price on and not advertising that you are willing to haggle. Sure, most people will negotiate the price. Even some reputable tack shops have room to maneuver, but they don’t hang a sign saying if you’re stupid enough to pay the asking price, come in.
When I see a price with a big “OBO” it does not tell me “I am willing to negotiate”, I read it as “I am desperate”.
Again you have to be the expert. If you can buy it new for $ 1200, why give someone $ 900 for one with signs of wear and tear? If it’s not at least half the price new, keep looking.
Do a little homework and buying your used chair can be a bargain with few to no surprises … and I’ll see you along the way.