An apple a day keeps the doctor away. No doubt you have heard this cliché at least once before. Well, when it comes to your pond, a monthly test keeps it looking its best! Testing the water quality in your pond is not only a learning process, it is also vital to maintaining a balanced ecosystem and maintaining water stability. But what is the easiest way to test pond water? What do I try for? How often should I get tested? How can I correct any imbalances I may discover? Analyzing water is not as complicated as it seems. It’s hardly rocket science. All you need is the basics.
First, how do I test my pond water? This is perhaps the easiest question to answer when it comes to water testing. Easy, ready-to-use test kits are available. It is better to buy an all-in-one water test kit than to buy many separately. The all in one is more convenient and covers all the necessary factors in your pond that needs testing. Buying individual test kits one at a time can be expensive.
What do I need to test my pond for? There are six main parameters that need testing: ammonia, pH, nitrite, oxygen, carbonate hardness, and general hardness. I’ll break down what each of these parameters is, why you need to test them, and how to correct any imbalances.
1. Ammonia: A gas that is highly alkaline (toxic) in aqueous solutions. It is caused by fish waste, debris, or other decaying organic matter. Ammonia must be kept at a zero level. The best way to prevent high ammonia spikes is to limit the amount of food you give your fish. The less processed food you eat, the less toxic waste your fish produce, something I’m sure we’re all familiar with. This will only help keep the ammonia level low.
How to correct ammonia imbalance: The best solution for high ammonia spikes is a sufficient water change of 25% to 40%. Once you’ve done a water change, be sure to add dechlorinator to remove chlorine and chloramines from the pond. Also, check that the biological filter is clean. It is best to rinse the filter media in a pond bucket, NOT in tap water. Monitor ammonia levels for the next few weeks.
2. pH: defined as the potential of Hydrogen. pH is the measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. pH and ammonia go hand in hand. If the pH levels are too low (below 7), the results could be deadly. The pH scales range from 1 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Ideal levels should be between 7.0 and 8.0
How to correct the pH imbalance: If your pH is low (less than 7), a pH increaser will be necessary. It is a treatment that will raise the pH level of your pond by neutralizing acidic substances. Baking soda can be used to raise the pH, but it doesn’t last. If your pH is high (typically above 8), a pH lowering treatment can be used. This treatment neutralizes alkaline substances. Vinegar is cheap and works well in larger ponds. The use of vinegar in small or medium-sized ponds can be dangerous for fish and should be treated in small quantities. Both products work at a slow rate to keep aquatic life healthy. The pH should be tested in the morning to achieve accurate results.
3. Nitrite: an oxidized Nitrogen ion. Too much nitrite can be harmful to fish. The reason is that nitrite is absorbed into the blood, reducing its ability to carry oxygen around the body. It can potentially cause ulcers or even suffocate fish from lack of oxygen.
How to correct nitrite imbalance: Nitrite levels should ideally be below 0.8 mg/l, but can be allowed to fluctuate up to 1.5 mg/l. If the nitrite is above this level, a 20% water change is crucial. Be sure to add a dechlorinator every time you do a water change. Monitor nitrite levels carefully over the next two weeks so they stay balanced.
4. Oxygen: element necessary to sustain life. Like any living thing, fish need oxygen to survive. If your pond lacks the sufficient amount of oxygen needed, your fish may be more susceptible to disease or may even suffocate.
How to Correct Oxygen Imbalance – Hot weather is the most crucial time to test oxygen levels in your pond. If oxygen is low, there are a couple of simple solutions. Aerators can be used or aquatic plants can be added. Oxygenating plants like Anachorus or Hornwort work especially well. A larger pump can also increase pond aeration. Even extra fountains or spitters could help, anything to help move and splash water.
5. Carbonate Hardness: the content of Carbonates and Bicarbonates. pH and KH (carbonate hardness) affect each other. The higher the KH level, the higher the pH level and vice versa. As you know, pH also affects ammonia levels.
6. General Hardness (GH): measurement of dissolved Calcium and Magnesium salts. Salt influences the metabolism of any aquatic life and must be tested to ensure the health of the fish.
Correcting Carbonate Imbalance and General Hardness: If your pond water test results reveal excessive hardness, a softener can be used as a reducer. Rainwater or distilled water will also work.
These six parameters are the basic factors that should be tested in any pond. Chlorine, chloramines, and copper (if the water runs through copper pipes) can also be tested, but are usually not necessary.
The temperature must be regulated. An ideal temperature for a Koi pond is between 65° and 75°F. However, in extreme conditions, 35°-85°F is acceptable.