This design has the widest range of utility. And I recommend it for 90% of home shots and bowlers who only shoot on a home shot. Or in other words, the average bowler once a week or twice a week.
1. Arcing’s design – This design is what I call the 90 degree design or the 90 degree Ebonite design that is used in most house outlets. Or if the bowler wants to play on the bowling alley in the lane area or between board 13 and 8 on the arrows. This design has the widest range of utility. And I recommend it for 90% of home shots and bowlers who only shoot on a home shot. Or in other words, the average bowler once a week or twice a week.
Design – When the ball is pierced, position the pin 4.5 inches from your point on the positive axis (pap) or below your ring finger. In a symmetrical ball, the center of gravity (cg) should be aligned with the pin tilted towards the thumb. In an asymmetrical ball, the dough bias should be in line with the pin and directly under the thumb. This is the 90% Ebonite design.
2. The early rolling design. – This design is used on long or oily or trailing oil patterns. It is also used when the bowler wants to play the lanes from 7 boards or should I say lane conditions dictate it. The type of bowling ball is usually resin or reactive solid particle. This design can also be used to split a shot into a sporty pattern that I like to use the word break open instead of. Break up because that’s what you’re trying to do. The designer pin under the ring finger back or 4.5 away from your pap. And the mass or cg has an angle of 35 to 65 degrees. The angle is determined by the quantity or starter roll you want. I prefer mine at about 35 degrees, which is about 2 inches from the thumb ratter than 3 inches. In other words, 3 inches = 45 degrees and 35 degrees = 2 inches. Another rule of thumb is that the closer the dough is to the porridge, the earlier it is thrown away. An average of once or twice a week, bowlers will rarely need this design unless the bowler is playing at a facility that has slippery track conditions and the shot is more outdoors.
3. The Flip design. – this design is just what it says: it is a ball that is thrown into the air. This layout is used to play the innermost lanes on approximately the 14 boards on the arrows with an open line. This layout is used to stand to the left and give it space. It is used when lane conditions have really dry backends and when the shot is really screwed up late at night in bounce games is when I used this ball. In other words, a long, strong ball, or now I know that a lot of people think this is a versatile ball, but it is not really used much, especially if it is always played with the fresh ball. OK the layout, this layout is the stacked layout, it’s the 4.5 pin of pap and the cg or mass directly below it in a vertical line, the length is determined by how high the pin is above the fingers. In other words, the higher the pin, the longer the ball will move before launching or breaking. The surface is usually a shiny solid reactive pearl or bowling ball.
Bail – Now if you use this in oil, it will slip too much and will never tip over. So, match the ball to the lane condition. An average of once or twice a week, bowlers will rarely need this design unless the bowler is playing at a center that has very dry track conditions or the shot is further in.
Golden Rule.
1. Track area or middle lane conditions. = bow 90% of bowlers in the house will use this ball.
2. Oily and outer lane conditions. = early roll.
3. Inner rail or tumbler conditions = spinning ball or stacked.